Five Brisbane foodies share their Christmas ham plans

Nothing says Christmas more to me than a big leg of ham slowly roasting in the oven and the prospect of eating it for Christmas lunch.

Every year we work though the ham over a week or so of sandwiches, ham and egg breakfasts, and finally ham and egg quiche. I always save the ham bone, intending to make pea and ham soup, and throw it out around July when I clean the freezer.

I’m not alone when it comes to enjoying ham for Christmas.  Jerome Dalton, who heads up leading Brisbane caterer Dalton Hospitality, says he was planning on eating his own ham this year.

“I did plan on my own ham from our pigs but an unfortunate cool room breakdown ended that dream,” says Dalton.  "Each year we buy free range hams from Tillari Trotters who farm at Tamworth. These local hams are quite dry, unlike the poor quality imported ones. The only cruelty at our Christmas table is that I cook and then wash up!”

Jerome's Ham Glaze
1 litre of cloudy apple juice reduced to around 50 percent until it browns and thickens
brown sugar
star anise

Harold and Christine Fleming are known for the moreish fillings of the soft buns they sell around Brisbane from the Bun Mobile. Harold says they always have a Christmas ham on the bone.

"We source it from Gillys Smallgoods," says Fleming. "I have been a customer of theirs for many years. They supply all of our pork and smallgoods on the Bun Mobile and are located at Clontarf."

Harold says his ham glaze recipe is pretty simple, but very tasty:

Harold's Ham Glaze
2 tablespoons brown sugar 
2 tablespoons Blend Smoked Honey 
2 tablespoons grain mustard

Mix it all together and splatter it over a skinless, scored ham on the bone. Bake in hot over until golden brown and crispy.

Campos Coffee Queensland Director Eugene Phua says a Christmas without ham is no Christmas at all! He always shops local at Petersens' Quality Meats in New Farm, which has been serving the local community for over a century.

“The ham must be sliced thinly and served cold on this hot summer day accompanied by delicious plum sauce for that Asian influence from my cultural background,” Phua says.

Eugene Phua’s Christmas Ham Glaze

1 (about 6-8kg) whole leg ham, on the bone
 120g dulce sugar
 60ml maple syrup
 100ml plum sauce
 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Whole cloves, to stud

Step 1 Stir the sugar, maple syrup, plum sauce and mustard in a bowl until the sugar dissolves.
Step 2 Preheat oven to 170ºC. Line a large baking dish with 2 layers of non-stick baking paper. Place an oven shelf in the lowest position. Score the fat in a diamond pattern, about 5mm deep. Stud the centres of the diamonds with plenty of cloves.
Step 3 Brush one-third of the glaze over the ham. Bake, brushing with glaze every 15 minutes, for 1 hour 30 minutes.

Chef Dominique Rizzo who recently opened Putia Pure Food Kitchen/Pantry Cooking School at Banyo says she loves eating ham for Christmas.

“ I don’t tend to eat ham through the year, saving that beloved all time favourite flavour and tradition for Christmas,” says Rizzo.  “This year I am picking one up at my local butcher on Sandgate Road,  Ashcroft Meats. Ashcroft are a real traditional butcher with their own smokehouse and good old fashion service, where you order the ham and hope not to miss out.”

“Normally I would glaze the ham but this year I am going to serve it fresh with an assortment of mustards, relish and accompaniments.

Dom's Ham Glaze

1 jar of marmalade with the orange pieces
dijon mustard
a little orange juice and honey.

Stud the ham fat with cloves and then brush with the marmalade mix. Bake the ham while still basting with the mix and continue until the ham is golden brown.

“It turns out a gorgeous golden brown, sticky and scrumptious,” says Rizzo.

Ham is not optional for Michael Dalton who runs wholesale speciality food distributor Fino Food and Wine, based in Bulimba.

“ A ham is essential,” says Dalton.  “I get mine from Quattro Stelle, a Sydney based smallgoods producer.  It's a Duroc/Berkshire cross pig and gently smoked over apple and beechwood.  Controversially (in my family at least), I refuse to be bothered with a glaze.  I bake it on a low temperature to warm it through.”

Breaking with tradition, baking queen Judy Cook of Cakes by Judy C has decided not to have a ham.

“This is the first year we decided not to have ham,” says Cook. “We are having stuffed turkey breast as we had one from Billy’s Meats at Ashgrove last year and all the family decided it was the best ever so we are having the same this year. “It does have stuffing and we will be serving with gravy, cranberry sauce, potato bake, waldorf salad and green leaf salad.”

It will be followed by Judy’s family’s traditional pudding with custard and cream and tiramisu.

“My kids just love it,” she says.

Horst Schurger

5 tips on picking a great ham

Tips from Fleischmeister and master butcher, Horst Schurger
  1. Look for a natural meaty texture: avoid the wet or rubbery.
  2. Choose a ham with a good smoky flavour. Ask to taste it.
  3. Look for smooth, even skin and even colouring. If the knuckle is sunken, it’s overcooked. If the rind if buckled or uneven, it’s a sign of dryness.
  4. Hams 10-12kg are most likely to have the best flavour and texture due to age of the pig.
  5. For the best results, opt for fresh Australian pork rather than hams made in Australia from frozen imported meat.

Ham storage
  1. Dip your ham bag (linen tea towel) in a solution of 2 cups of water and 1 tablespoon of vinegar. Squeeze out excess moisture and place ham in the bag.
  2. Store in coolest part of fridge (below 4°C). Leg ham on the bone should last for up to 3 weeks.
  3. Rinse and re-dip your Ham Bag in water and vinegar solution every 3 days, or as needed.
Kerry Heaney