New from the fertile imagination of Brisbane's king of eclectic Damian Griffiths is Kwan Brothers, a late night venue which marries up the grit of an old Asian noodle factory with the crazy bling of Asian pop culture.
With disco balls, loud music and a long, well stocked bar, you could almost think you were in Bangkok except the lady boys are missing at Kwan Brothers. However there's no mistaking the origin of the food which brings the best of Asian street food, with a reassuring Australian touch, to our shores.
You'll find Kwan Brothers nestled nicely next to Alfredo's Pizzeria and Alfred and Constance in tiny Alfred Street. It's definitely a Griffith's takeover of this block but I can't see anyone complaining.
Expect pork belly encased in milky white buns accompanied by crunchy pickled daikon with a sprinkle of peanuts and coriander or salmon tartare, Vietnamese style on a prawn cracker. There's charcoal grilled lamb ribs oozing with smoky aroma and the sweetest sweet corn fritters. There was nothing on the extensive tasting menu that didn't delight - all carefully crafted combinations with an excellent flavour balance and plenty of Asian crunch.
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| Jocelyn Hancock was also involved in menu development and tasting. |
Start your evening like I did with a Kwan's Coco Loco cocktail combining rum, cream of coconut, kaffir lime leaf and black peppercorn syrup, pineapple and lime with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Delicious.
The decor is definitely amusing with the talented Alexander Lowenstein once again in charge. I love the wall slogans which take a subtle swipe at Chinglish and Aussie slang.
Here's what we ate -
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| Pork belly bao sliders |
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| Sand crab corn chips with green papaya avocado & mint |
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| Vietnamese salmon tartare |
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| Sweet corn fritters |
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| Crispy silken tofu |
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| Oh yes - the happy ending - Bao Ice Cream Sandwiches |
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| Deep fried bao bun, toasted sesame, pandan, palm sugar & ginger ice cream. |
Is there a downside here? The music is loud and the venue is noisy but there's enough action happening around and in the open kitchen providing plenty of amusement. I love the mirror disco balls at the entrance and the Asian-inspired cocktail list. It's not for everyone but there will be many who love it. And the food will have you coming back.
Bottom line- prices were not revealed on the preview night menu
Best tip: Plenty of parking opposite in the parking station but don't drink and drive.
Kerry Heaney
Disclaimer: Ed+bK was a guest at the preview night.
